With the next few months that I spent in Chef Trotter's kitchen I taught myself to walk, and shortly after to run. My knowledge of pastey was realistically nothing. I can now say that with confidence. Chef was not the only one looking to me to create; my new family, endless number of guests and friends guilded me to "push" more then ever before. Chef Trotter would always tell us to be poets when we cooked. "Every time you open that drawer, you must be like a poet". The pastry world was a push to not only educate myself but my peers as well.
Every day we experimented with new ingredients and flavor profiles for such VIP guests such as Mr. Gaby, Mr. Gabrisyk, Mr. Stone and Mr. Harris. These fine clients (as Charlie called them) amongst other chefs and friends of the restaurant would never receive the same dish twice. Below is a few of the fruit based desserts we played with that year.
Third harvest of some incredible strawberries
Yogurt sorbet, candied pistachio, tarragon purée, Granny Smith apples, and warm pistachio cake.
Pistachio cake:
2c (445g) - sugar
400g - butter
2c (440g) - pistachio paste
8 each - eggs
1c - cake flour
4 each - meyer lemon, zested
cream butter and sugar
Add paste
Add eggs one at a time
Add flour and zest
Line 2 1/4 trays and bake at 350
1770g total
885 in each
Each cake yields 20 - 2 1/4 inch pieces
Hazelnut and toffee financier, whipped pineapple, caramelized bananas, date jam, and candied hazelnuts.
Guava mousse, coffee crumb, fresh passion fruit, passion fruit curd, pink peppercorn meringue, blossoms, and caramelized white chocolate pudding
Black berry sorbet, chantilly creme, almonds, mint and herb pudding, with a black berry cobbler
Served on one of Chef Trotter photographs, right off the wall
Bourbon and vanilla ice cream, toasted free form creme brûlée, smoked pecan crips and candied crumb, grilled / marinated peaches, angostura oil with anise hyssop.
Black tea and butterscotch free form Creme brûlée:
1000g – Cream
3 - Vanilla beans
15g - black tea, toasted
300g – Sugar, brown
100g – Maple syrup, bourbon
50g - Glucose
50g – H20
50g – Scotch, Laphroaig
200g - egg, yolks
100g - sugar
- Bring cream and vanilla to a simmer
- Bring sugar mixture to 325 F
- Strain cream and slowly whisk into caramel
- Add Scotch
- Temper mixture into eggs, bring to 180F
To use as free form
1000g - Maple butter scotch cream
1g – Iota carrageenan
1.75g kappa caragenan
1g – gellan gum
- Shear gums, simmer mixture and pour over flat ½ sheet tray lined with acetate to mold, freeze and cut to shape with ring cutter
- Or heat and pour to order, any shape
- Toast with smoked sugar
Smoke sugar (to toast for creme brûlée)
Poached, pickled, fresh, dried apricot. Tarragon, toasted pinenuts and citrus granita
Apricot Fondant drops
705g- Fondant
3g - Apricot oil based flavoring
84g- Apricot 2:1 syrup
Coloring as needed
Apricot 2:1 syrup:
500g - Apricot juice
1000g - Sugar
- Microwave fondant for 30 seconds
- Combine apricot mixture, coloring, and fondant over a double broiler
- Fold mixture and cook to 155 F
- Using a sauce gun pipe out fondant discs
- Store in a dry cool place
Warm zucchini cake, ricotta ice cream and stuffed crispy squash blossom, pickled basil seeds, basil oil, olive oil jam, whipped basil and carrot / ginger reduction
Zucchini cake:
Wet Mix
70g oil215g. Sugar
1 1/4 cup + 2 tsp. water
370g sauteed zucchini
Salt
Dry Mix
270g flour
5g baking soda
5g baking powder
2.5g nutmeg
5g cinnamon
2.5g ground cloves
5g salt
Boil for 3 min, chill
Sift dry ingredients
Fold wet mixer into dry
Bake at 325° for 50 minutes.
Poppy seed, raspberry, mint, milk, and mixed berries
huitlacoche sorbet, textures of corn, lime emulsion, blossoming cilantro, and caramel
St. Germain sorbet, lemon, candied honeycomb, textures of pear, warm honey, spiced whipped cream, vanilla, and chamomile cotton candy
Huckle berrie sorbet, textures of huckleberry, candied hazelnuts, candied ginger pâté fruit, and bourdoux consumme
Huckleberry Juice "tuile"
Juice tuile
230g - Huckleberry Juice
60g - Sugar
10g - Lemon juice
20g - Sugar
6g - Methocel F50
8g - Ultratex 8
- Seer gums into liquid base
- Allow to hydrate over night
- Blend until smooth
- Spread out over acetate or mold and dehydrate until a film is formed
- Cut to shape
- Bake at 225 F, 100 C 10-15 minutes
- Remove, form to desired shape
Duet of carrot sorbets, golden raisin confit, cardamom carrot cake and cider
Yellow, and orange carrot cider sorbet
Cider syrup:
1,300g – Sorbet base
Clove
Cinnamon, sticks
Star anise
Cardamom
50g - Sugar
8g - Stabilizer
2g – Xanthan gum
- Toast spices and pour over sorbet base
- Combine the sugar, stabilizer, and xanthan, whisk into sorbet base
- Bring mixture to 185F, remove from heat and steep covered for 20 minutes
- Stain and chill
1,325g - Carrot, juice, yellow, purple, or orange
1,175g – Cider syrup
- Create cider syrup
- Combine cool liquids, freeze and pacotiz (pipe sorbets onto a frozen sheet tray, swirl and freeze at least 2 hours
- Cut to shape (#5 ring cutter) and reserve on anti griddle
Version #2
Carrot cake crumb
185g – Flour, bread
1.5g - Baking powder
3.5g - Baking soda
205g - Sugar, brown
3g - Salt
145g – Oil, grape seed
75g – Eggs, whole
230g – Carrots shredded
15g – Ginger, crystallized, chopped very fine
2.5g – Cinnamon, ground
2.5g – Cinnamon, ground
5g – Ginger, powdered
3g –- Clove
4 each- Black cardamom, ground
- Line a quarter sheet pan with a Silpat and spray with nonstick spray.
- Sift all dry ingredients, other than sugar. Mix the sugar and oil in a stand mixer with paddle attachment. Mix in the eggs in two additions.
- Toss the carrots with 75g of the flour mixture (to keep the carrot from sticking together). Add along with ginger
- Add half the remaining flour mixture to the batter, then add the other half.
- Finally, mix in the carrots. Pour the batter into the prepared pan and bake at 325F until done 18-25 min
- Cool briefly, then invert the cake onto a rack and let cool before using cutter #5.
Spiced cranberry sorbet, rosemary walnut stuffing, and gravy panna cotta, with celery bubbles
Spiced cranberry sorbet
4,000g - Cranberries, fresh
20g - Clove
6 each - Cardamom pod, black
10 each - Oranges, rind
4g - Sodium citrate
3g - Salt
3,664g - Cranberry puree
68g - Glucose powder
1720g - Sugar
20g - Stabilizer
1184g - H2O, Fiji
- Bring ice cream base to 85C / 185F
- Chill and age under refrigeration for at least 2 hours
- Blend with cranberry puree
Turkey cream and "Panna cotta"
4000g - H2O
25Lb - Turkey bones, roasted
100g - Carrot
100g - Celery
1500g - Turkey stock
1000g - Cream
100g - Maple syrup
50g - Sugar
2 each - Turkey necks
100g - Grape seed oil
3g - Xanthan gum
4g - Thyme, fresh
10g - Rosemary, fresh, leaves only
TT - Salt
- Brown bones, deglaze with H2O
- Add celery, and carrot to H2O mixture
- Bring to a light simmer, reduce by half
- Strain then reduce to 1500g
- Steep in fresh thyme and rosemary for 5 minutes, remove
- Render turkey necks with grape seed oil
- Add cream and maple syrup
- Mix sugar and xanthan gum, bur mix into cream
- Add turkey stock, and chill mixture
For Panna Cotta
22g (8.5 sheets) – Gelatin, sheets
132g – H2O
2500g – Finished turkey cream
- Bloom gelatin with chilled scaled H2O
- Bring cream to 185F, and completely melt bloomed gelatin into cream
- Pour into molds, chill, cover and freeze
- Unmold and thaw in cooler
For Panna Cotta
3000g - Finished turkey cream
9g - Iota carrageenan
30g - Sugar
- Combine sugar and iota, seer into cream
- Hydrate, gels at 70C / 158F
- Quick setting gel, (melt and pour on plates/molds)
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